As I came home, I spotted a red piece of paper pasted on the wall between the two lifts. Hmm, someone has passed away I thought to myself, but there was no sign of a wake downstairs in the limited space within my block of flats.
Later, the son came to inform that his father has passed away. Since suffering from a stroke and gradually recovering, we have seen less of him. It was still a shock to learnt of his passing in the hospital, not from the problem that he went there for.
Last night we went to the wake that was put up in a neighbouring cluster of HDB flats that have a bigger space for the wake. It seems that the neighbourhood (if there is still the same impression, and the neighbours who really know each other) got to meet each other and sit down to chat only during wakes. Koptiams are no longer the watering holes of the old, save a few. So, at best was "a good morning, wah your children have grown, how's your parents?" ... the usual questions, often waiting or inside the lift, where more of the people are strangers. Kids and pets are usually the ice-breaking points.
Back to our neighbour. We must have been neighbours for a good 40 years, since the urban renewal when many people from the old pre-war houses of the Teochew community (around the then Ellenborough Market that is not wiped out of the area and replaced by the Central shopping mall) and the Cantonese & Hokkien community (in the Chin Chew St to Hokkien St area). I was "married in" to stay with my later mother-in-law because of the HDB policy. But that's another story.
I remember this neighbour as a strict and yet doting father, as his son-in-law described him in his facebook page. More so as a grandfather as he tried to balance being a strict and yet dotting grandpa. As we are next door neighbours, there was more than the passing conversations. The ladies of the row of apartments between the lift and the end of the row were probably the main communicators. And then, the children. Imagine in this row, we have Teochew, Cantonese, Hainanese and Hokkien. No problem, we could communicate, in one of the dialects.
In the early days, my (would be) mother-in-law was very frugal. She knows what is poverty and would not spend more than what is necessary. When we treated her to a meal outside, and she found out that they "yau-choy" (you cai) cost much more than what she could buy from the wet market and cook, she chided us for wasting money. I remember those days when we wanted to watch live telecast of the National Day parade, we would hop over to his house to watch. His kids were still young then.
In 1976, I was sent to Japan for training. I was given a 20 minute "collect call" (meaning I make a call from Japan and Singapore pays, in this case, my company) back to Singapore. But I had no phone at home, or my then girl friend (now my wife). We found out that our neighbour had a phone and so we asked to use his phone. Imagine the trouble we caused to him and family each time I called back, once a week, for some 16 weeks!
And when he went shopping for his favourite Teochew kueh, he never forgot about us. We got to eat the best Teochew Png-Kueh (the pink cake in the same of a peach but flat) and Tsu-Kak Kueh (the black version of Ang Ku Kueh using the leaves of a plant for the flavouring of the skin).
When our kids came, they would often pop over next door. Interestingly, just at about meal time. Kids are great in their art of getting what they want. They would tell the wife how her cooking smells so nice. And when they returned home, they announced that they already had their dinner!
While he has seen our kids grow from babies to what they are now (hovering around 20s), we have seen his kids grew, got married and have kids.
As modern vertical communities do not have much common facilities for interactions, unlike a kampong or a street community, where there is always the inevitable coffeeshop or temple, communications amongst neighbours are few and sometimes far in between. Like the Chinese would say, we probably meet and communicate more during red (weddings, baby month old celebrations) and white (death) events. Despite the short and few communications, we appreciate the neighbourliness and care of our neighbour and his family.
With sadness and acceptance of the inevitability, we thank him for all the wonderful times and for taking care of us and our children in many ways and wish him a smooth journey ahead. To his extended family, we offer our sincere and deep condolences.
Saturday, September 28, 2013
Sunday, September 01, 2013
MId-Autumn Festival is just around the week
As if to chase away the "yin" energies away, Chinatown Singapore will welcome the Mid-Autumn festival with gusto, plenty of "yang" energies.
As I strolled through the streets of the "inner" Chinatown, also known as Gnau Chair Shui or Bullockcartwater this evening, I noticed that lanterns were being displayed. A couple of moon cakes too. I could not help reminiscing the olden days as I strolled down from Sago lane through Tregganu St into Pagoda St and the along New Bridge Rd. How much had changed other than the remaining standing shop houses?
For a start, my wife and I decided to have a picnic in Chinatown. Yes, with Bratwurst, Gherkin and Sauerkraut with Stiegl Weissen! At the only Wurstelstand in Chinatown, just above the equator. In my younger days I would not have even imagined about this meal! Enjoying the wurst (sausages) and listening to the chattering of Hokkien (interestingly, I would have expected Cantonese) in the coffeeshop, I noticed quite a mix of population. There was Austrian, Thai and Chinese food. There must be at least some four to five languages being spoken at any instant. In the old days, at this place, it would have been only Cantonese.
After a fulfilling meal, we decided to take a slow stroll back. Ah, the old Wurstelstand has become a perfume stall! And just across from it were hung new plastic inflated lantern lookalike. Now, what would be the new additions this year. You can guess as much when you see the picture.
In the old days, my wife and I (well, we were kids then) would run to this small stall with kindergarten chairs to have our favourite yau-yi-ong-choy (cuttleflish with kangkong) but those would only remain in our memories. I am trying hard to remember the crunch of the jellyfish and the taste of the dark red sauce with chill, and visualising the ever fierce and strict matriarch overseeing her daughter and daughter-in-law. It is becoming cloudy these days. What I saw was Tiger Beer and Chilli Crab. In Chinatown!! Yes, in the old days, it would be difficult to see any foreigners in Chinatown at night, but these days, it might be the reserve. One small kid was stopped just in time by his father from erasing the chalked writing on the menu-board. Ah, the wan-pi (mischievous) kid, who would have risked a thrashing in the old days.
Wow, the romantic red lantern with the Chinese characters "Double Happiness" beaming the soft rays on the foreign couples as they enjoyed the Singapore food.
More lanterns, these time some of the old versions similar to those in the 50s. My wife was complaining that they are not adding the gills to the goldfish! Why did you know, I asked. She remembered being paid five cents to paste the gills onto these fish lanterns.
In the old days, Chinatown would have been the place to buy moon cakes, especially the Cantonese moon cakes. These days, while famous old names like Dai Chong Kok (Da Zhong Quo) still thrive, most of the moon cake businesses seem to be centred around hotels selling them as corporate gifts. Vivo City has become one of the biggest Moon Cake fairs!
Chinatown is going to usher in the 8th Moon (lunar month), which begins on 5 Sep 13, with a light-up on Saturday 7 Sep 13. Many activities have been planned. You now almost don't need any paper to know the schedules (well we still have any senior citizens who have yet to get into the net) as all the details could be found here: Chinatownfestivals Well, this young man came to offer me a pamphlet and invited me to the event. Down the road, he might tell his own story of our Chinatown. (^^)
And soon, kids and adults alike will be reminded of the stories centering around the Moon and Autumn (which has not climatic bearing in Singapore), yes, with food as well such as moon cake (but of course, and with it history and stories of ancient China), water caltrops, small yams and pomelos.
As I strolled through the streets of the "inner" Chinatown, also known as Gnau Chair Shui or Bullockcartwater this evening, I noticed that lanterns were being displayed. A couple of moon cakes too. I could not help reminiscing the olden days as I strolled down from Sago lane through Tregganu St into Pagoda St and the along New Bridge Rd. How much had changed other than the remaining standing shop houses?
For a start, my wife and I decided to have a picnic in Chinatown. Yes, with Bratwurst, Gherkin and Sauerkraut with Stiegl Weissen! At the only Wurstelstand in Chinatown, just above the equator. In my younger days I would not have even imagined about this meal! Enjoying the wurst (sausages) and listening to the chattering of Hokkien (interestingly, I would have expected Cantonese) in the coffeeshop, I noticed quite a mix of population. There was Austrian, Thai and Chinese food. There must be at least some four to five languages being spoken at any instant. In the old days, at this place, it would have been only Cantonese.
After a fulfilling meal, we decided to take a slow stroll back. Ah, the old Wurstelstand has become a perfume stall! And just across from it were hung new plastic inflated lantern lookalike. Now, what would be the new additions this year. You can guess as much when you see the picture.
In the old days, my wife and I (well, we were kids then) would run to this small stall with kindergarten chairs to have our favourite yau-yi-ong-choy (cuttleflish with kangkong) but those would only remain in our memories. I am trying hard to remember the crunch of the jellyfish and the taste of the dark red sauce with chill, and visualising the ever fierce and strict matriarch overseeing her daughter and daughter-in-law. It is becoming cloudy these days. What I saw was Tiger Beer and Chilli Crab. In Chinatown!! Yes, in the old days, it would be difficult to see any foreigners in Chinatown at night, but these days, it might be the reserve. One small kid was stopped just in time by his father from erasing the chalked writing on the menu-board. Ah, the wan-pi (mischievous) kid, who would have risked a thrashing in the old days.
Wow, the romantic red lantern with the Chinese characters "Double Happiness" beaming the soft rays on the foreign couples as they enjoyed the Singapore food.
More lanterns, these time some of the old versions similar to those in the 50s. My wife was complaining that they are not adding the gills to the goldfish! Why did you know, I asked. She remembered being paid five cents to paste the gills onto these fish lanterns.
In the old days, Chinatown would have been the place to buy moon cakes, especially the Cantonese moon cakes. These days, while famous old names like Dai Chong Kok (Da Zhong Quo) still thrive, most of the moon cake businesses seem to be centred around hotels selling them as corporate gifts. Vivo City has become one of the biggest Moon Cake fairs!
Chinatown is going to usher in the 8th Moon (lunar month), which begins on 5 Sep 13, with a light-up on Saturday 7 Sep 13. Many activities have been planned. You now almost don't need any paper to know the schedules (well we still have any senior citizens who have yet to get into the net) as all the details could be found here: Chinatownfestivals Well, this young man came to offer me a pamphlet and invited me to the event. Down the road, he might tell his own story of our Chinatown. (^^)
And soon, kids and adults alike will be reminded of the stories centering around the Moon and Autumn (which has not climatic bearing in Singapore), yes, with food as well such as moon cake (but of course, and with it history and stories of ancient China), water caltrops, small yams and pomelos.
Wednesday, August 14, 2013
Seven Sisters
A few decade ago, on the 7th day of the 7th Moon (lunar month) and you are likely to see the celebration in hour of the Seven Sisters, known to the Cantonese as "Chart Jie" (Qi Jie). There would be big displays as the young ladies would celebrate.
In the book written by See Cheng, there was a chapter on the Seven Sisters.
On the eve of the 7th of 7th Moon, as I was walking home along New Bridge Road, I chanced upon this offering being placed and prepared for prayers. In the Chinese concept of time, 11pm of the day is the beginning of the next day.
Some friends commented that they remembered that "Chart Jie" celebrations were commemorated on the actual day of the 7th. Interestingly too, in the old days, most temple events would start on the beginning of the actual day, meaning perhaps, dawn. These days, most would do it at 11pm on the night before. But we know that we welcome the Chinese New Year on the even at 11pm. A trend for other celebrations perhaps.
I am looking for more tales of the celebration of the 7 Sisters.
In the book written by See Cheng, there was a chapter on the Seven Sisters.
Poster at the Chinatown Heritage Museum
On the eve of the 7th of 7th Moon, as I was walking home along New Bridge Road, I chanced upon this offering being placed and prepared for prayers. In the Chinese concept of time, 11pm of the day is the beginning of the next day.
Some friends commented that they remembered that "Chart Jie" celebrations were commemorated on the actual day of the 7th. Interestingly too, in the old days, most temple events would start on the beginning of the actual day, meaning perhaps, dawn. These days, most would do it at 11pm on the night before. But we know that we welcome the Chinese New Year on the even at 11pm. A trend for other celebrations perhaps.
I am looking for more tales of the celebration of the 7 Sisters.
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Yet another funeral
As I sat having my dinner, the strains of the Teochew operatic singing came up the storeys from the ground floor. No, I am not complaining about the noise. In fact, I am "enjoying" the music, in a way. I should not be saying that I enjoy as this is part of a Teochew ritual in a funeral wake. This is part of a "journey" of the deceased as he/she leaves this world.
The Teochew operatic style singing reminds me of the many Teochew street operas that one could find along the streets in the old days. Yes, in the old days in Chinatown, there would be some kind of events - temple or community - almost every other week.
In the old days, when someone in a Teochew family passed away, there would be such a ritual performed by members of a Sian Tng (Shan Tang in Teochew) that the family could have been a member of. The interesting attractions to the neighbours would be the young children choir singing the Teochew rituals in their sweet voices against the playing of the strings, gongs and cymbals. These days, they are rare but there are still enough older teens and adults doing the rituals.
Where I live, it is a community of Teochews and Cantonese. Interesting in that together, they form the little Guangdong. Yes, in the apartment block where I live, the original residents were actually resettled from the Teochew area such as Teochew St (but of course) - of what is now Central Mall and the Chin Chew Rd area (where Upper Chin Chew St was known as Tau Foo Kai in Cantonese). It was a vertical community of two communities. Traffic between floors was high because of the extended families and old neighbours. Almost everyone would be greeting someone in the lift.
As days went by, such greetings seemed to lessen. The old wrinkled faces that wrinkled even more with their smiles seem to be getting less. I would be meeting more younger and fresh strange faces. I would still be meeting some familiar old faces, but they would be recent victims of stroke or with a walking stick supporting their weak legs. Greetings in dialects decreased. If any conversation in the lift, chances are it will be in Mandarin (of various accent) or English (also of various accent).
As the children moved out leaving their parents, the population here grows older. Some have moved out (yes, we are bombarded with record breaking offers of buying of our flats) bringing in new residents. For some of the older folks, they have found a space in the coffeeshop downstairs for coffee, and maybe beer, as beer seems to be the mainstay of coffeeshops these days. Some gathered on some discarded chairs to chat, listening to the Teochew Operas from a mini player. They would have been sitting along the Teochew Street in the evenings as their parents or grandparents would have done. That was history.
This scene could well become history soon. (^^)
The Teochew operatic style singing reminds me of the many Teochew street operas that one could find along the streets in the old days. Yes, in the old days in Chinatown, there would be some kind of events - temple or community - almost every other week.
In the old days, when someone in a Teochew family passed away, there would be such a ritual performed by members of a Sian Tng (Shan Tang in Teochew) that the family could have been a member of. The interesting attractions to the neighbours would be the young children choir singing the Teochew rituals in their sweet voices against the playing of the strings, gongs and cymbals. These days, they are rare but there are still enough older teens and adults doing the rituals.
Where I live, it is a community of Teochews and Cantonese. Interesting in that together, they form the little Guangdong. Yes, in the apartment block where I live, the original residents were actually resettled from the Teochew area such as Teochew St (but of course) - of what is now Central Mall and the Chin Chew Rd area (where Upper Chin Chew St was known as Tau Foo Kai in Cantonese). It was a vertical community of two communities. Traffic between floors was high because of the extended families and old neighbours. Almost everyone would be greeting someone in the lift.
As days went by, such greetings seemed to lessen. The old wrinkled faces that wrinkled even more with their smiles seem to be getting less. I would be meeting more younger and fresh strange faces. I would still be meeting some familiar old faces, but they would be recent victims of stroke or with a walking stick supporting their weak legs. Greetings in dialects decreased. If any conversation in the lift, chances are it will be in Mandarin (of various accent) or English (also of various accent).
As the children moved out leaving their parents, the population here grows older. Some have moved out (yes, we are bombarded with record breaking offers of buying of our flats) bringing in new residents. For some of the older folks, they have found a space in the coffeeshop downstairs for coffee, and maybe beer, as beer seems to be the mainstay of coffeeshops these days. Some gathered on some discarded chairs to chat, listening to the Teochew Operas from a mini player. They would have been sitting along the Teochew Street in the evenings as their parents or grandparents would have done. That was history.
This scene could well become history soon. (^^)
Tuesday, May 07, 2013
A visit to a neighbourhood clinic
Today, feeling the oncoming of an attack of flu, I decided to drop by a neighbourhood clinic, rather than travelling far away to my "company clinic". It was great in that I could call to "chope" (reserve) a number and be given a time to arrive. My domestic help made the arrangement for me. She knows the neighbourhood better than I do. Efficiency in practice. I could remember the days when I had to wait hours for a doctor, and in a "company clinic" too.
The first impression was that the clinic is small, not so "professional looking" as one would see in the high end ones. Apart from the visuals, my next impression was the friendly "customer service". "
"Ah you are living nearby," was the comment from this middle aged lady as she registered my name. It is the first time for me to visit this clinic although all in my family, including the domesitc help, have their medical records here. My professional brain was working, despite the flu bugs swimming in the head and elsewhere, observing and wondering if I could help improve in the IT part of it.
Today, the main doctor, and apparently the owner of the clinic, was off and I learnt that he's off on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Many of his "loyal" patients asked for him. Many would rather come on another day, when they found out over the phone. For me, it does not make any difference as my case is rather straightforward, hopefully, and I need some medication to suppress the reactions to the bugs.
Sitting and waiting for my turn, I observed that most of the patients were repeats and the counter staff knew them well. They would be bantering in dialects. Reminds me of the old days. Two or three of them came in to register and then went off to do marketing in the nearby Sheng Siong supermarket. Sure, some of them missed their numbers. I heard that they would have to wait for another 5 number calls before they could be called when they return. But there was no anger and no admonishment from the staff. Compared to the very old days when we were worried being scolded by the missy (nurse).
An old Malay man came in to see the doctor. He had weak legs and the ladies quickly got him to sit down before taking out his appointment card. That kind of kampong spirit that I see, very spontaneously.
Looking around, I noted that except for one, the rest of the patients had greying hair. Ah, but of course, I am also in this category of senior citizens. Two older ladies came with their domestic help to assist them.
A pleasant and smiling lady doctor attended to me. She explained to me the medicine that she was about to give me. She noted that my blood pressure was above the normal. I explained that I had a history and was taking medication but I missed them every now and then. She empathised with me when I said that I am taking my medicine every other day instead of cutting the pills into two, saying she would have the same problems. But she encouraged me to remember.
I could remember some decades back when I also went to a neighbourhood clinic that my impression was whether it was a senior citizen centre. It turned out, as I was to learn later, that they were amahs who had since retired and were being taken care of by the doctor, who probably was taken care by them when he was young. I guessed. This friendly old doctor was in no hurry to send me off. And so, a consultation could lead to more than just the immediate problems. I could vividly remember his encouraging me to have children (I did not have any then) to make a family more complete.
My name was called to collect my medicine. The lady who was giving me the medicine advised me not to taken chilli during this period and not to take too much salt considering my blood pressure. All in a friendly manner.
Ah, I think I can adopt this clinic for my retirement years. If the medical bills do not shoot up, that is. Or it might be trips to the local Chinese medicinal shops for self treatment. (^^)
The first impression was that the clinic is small, not so "professional looking" as one would see in the high end ones. Apart from the visuals, my next impression was the friendly "customer service". "
"Ah you are living nearby," was the comment from this middle aged lady as she registered my name. It is the first time for me to visit this clinic although all in my family, including the domesitc help, have their medical records here. My professional brain was working, despite the flu bugs swimming in the head and elsewhere, observing and wondering if I could help improve in the IT part of it.
Today, the main doctor, and apparently the owner of the clinic, was off and I learnt that he's off on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Many of his "loyal" patients asked for him. Many would rather come on another day, when they found out over the phone. For me, it does not make any difference as my case is rather straightforward, hopefully, and I need some medication to suppress the reactions to the bugs.
Sitting and waiting for my turn, I observed that most of the patients were repeats and the counter staff knew them well. They would be bantering in dialects. Reminds me of the old days. Two or three of them came in to register and then went off to do marketing in the nearby Sheng Siong supermarket. Sure, some of them missed their numbers. I heard that they would have to wait for another 5 number calls before they could be called when they return. But there was no anger and no admonishment from the staff. Compared to the very old days when we were worried being scolded by the missy (nurse).
An old Malay man came in to see the doctor. He had weak legs and the ladies quickly got him to sit down before taking out his appointment card. That kind of kampong spirit that I see, very spontaneously.
Looking around, I noted that except for one, the rest of the patients had greying hair. Ah, but of course, I am also in this category of senior citizens. Two older ladies came with their domestic help to assist them.
A pleasant and smiling lady doctor attended to me. She explained to me the medicine that she was about to give me. She noted that my blood pressure was above the normal. I explained that I had a history and was taking medication but I missed them every now and then. She empathised with me when I said that I am taking my medicine every other day instead of cutting the pills into two, saying she would have the same problems. But she encouraged me to remember.
I could remember some decades back when I also went to a neighbourhood clinic that my impression was whether it was a senior citizen centre. It turned out, as I was to learn later, that they were amahs who had since retired and were being taken care of by the doctor, who probably was taken care by them when he was young. I guessed. This friendly old doctor was in no hurry to send me off. And so, a consultation could lead to more than just the immediate problems. I could vividly remember his encouraging me to have children (I did not have any then) to make a family more complete.
My name was called to collect my medicine. The lady who was giving me the medicine advised me not to taken chilli during this period and not to take too much salt considering my blood pressure. All in a friendly manner.
Ah, I think I can adopt this clinic for my retirement years. If the medical bills do not shoot up, that is. Or it might be trips to the local Chinese medicinal shops for self treatment. (^^)
Monday, February 11, 2013
The Water Snake slithers in ...
It was a wet season that welcome the Chinese Lunar New Year. Business in Chinatown was in some ways dampened by the rain, but this did not dampen the spirits of the shoppers who braved the rain and the wet grounds to check out what's latest in Chinatown. The crowd was like what used to be decades ago. Of course, these days saw more tourists who wanted to soak in the atmosphere. For Singaporeans, almost every new town has its own Chinese New Year bazaars. But the atmosphere will not be the same as that in Chinatown, even though it does not have much of its original old-time sights.
It was a nostalgic walk along the streets of Chinatown (particularly in Temple St, Pagoda St, Trengganu St linking them through to Smith St), with the crowds being drawn to whoever called the loudest with the best offers. On the eve of Chinese New Year (CNY) eve, prices were beginning to drop, particularly the tidbits with short shelf lives. Certain tidbits just have to be there for visiting relatives and friends - kueh-chee (melon sheets) that now come in various flavours and groundnuts. Kueh-kueh (local pastries) come in big varieties ranging from love-letters (Kueh Belanda) to pineapple tarts. Most of these are influenced in many ways by Malays and Peranakans. There's the Taiwanese mochis that have been making big impact during pre-CNY sales.
What seems less obvious these days are the Dui-Lian (Couplets) that traditionally, most Chinese would get them to be pasted on both sides of the door-way and one on top. In the old days, and probably now, one would buy from the calligraphers. Letter writers in the old days are trained in calligraphy and hence could make the additional bucks from such sales. Every couplet is different because it is hand-written. These days, chances are one could buy printed ones. With most living in HDB flats, it would be a challenge to paste these Dui-Lian. My neighbour (who hails from mainland China) has his Dui-lian pasted on the door way between the living room and the kitchen, the only place where it is possible.
Food - an important part to the Chinese
Grandmas would be fussing about what to buy from the wet market to cook for the Reunion Dinner on the CNY Eve. Chinatown wet market is a favourite destination for many, especially for the older folks who used to shop here. Atmosphere in the basement market is different from the wet and dirty roads when the wet market stalls were along the Trengganu St area. No more pulling out the live chicken or ducks to check out if they are fat or not (or rather if they are meaty enough). In the old days, many would buy these poultry live and bring them back home. In the downtown houses, they could be kept in the bathroom or toilets. For those with bigger spaces, they could at least be in the kitchen courtyard. I remember the days when I had to fight with the chicken and ducks just going to the toilet. Or rather they were so alarmed by my presence. We would feed them with cockroaches in the belief that it fattens them up. Once my landlady decided to invest early with a few turkey chicks. Imagine the alarming calls each time I went to the toilet.
Then, came the stage when one would choose the live chicken or duck, have it weighed and price haggled and decided, pay for it and leave it to the stallholders to kill and de-feather, while one carried out with her shopping, to collect later. I remember the days when I had to help my mum to kill the chicken or duck by either holding the struggling bird's neck so that we could slit its throat and drain the blood. Yes, blood was also food. Then came the bird-flu and SARS and it was decided, no live birds in the market. We had to settle for chilled birds (at best).
Fish is another important item to buy. Nian Nian You Yu is one of the favourite greetings. Just similar sounds, but fish has always been an important dish for CNY dinner. For the Hokkien and Teochews, the Rabbit Fish (Peh Tor Hu - white belly fish) is one to look for. But alas, it is terribly expensive. It seems that during this time, the Rabbit Fish would be in its mating season, full or role. And it is less fishy in taste. One such fish could be about S$20 each, or more, from the wet market.
I suppose for other important ingredients, the existence of the supermarkets has somewhat dampened the prices in the wet market. Without fail, one would hear the housewives complaining that the prices "this year is higher than the last!".
For the Cantonese, the dried sausages are a must. many would flock to Chinatown which will have a bigger selection. During this season, a few stalls would be set up along Smith St to offer a range of sausages, waxed duck and the famous Yunnan Ham. The fact that sales were good indicate that many are still preparing them for meals at home. A simple steaming of the sausages on top of the rice is good enough for those of us who grew up with "Lap Cheong", the Cantonese name for the Chinese Sausages.
Everything Red
While the accountants see red in red, the Chinese just love them. Red packets in the old days were simple red paper cut into small enough sizes to wrap over the coins (yes, coins then). And then, red packets were for sale. These days, thanks to commercial marketing, one could get these red packets for free. And of course, the red packets were joined in by the gold packets, thanks to some innovative marketeers.
There seems to be the eternal "clash" between mothers and daughters (is this still true?) about wearing red and not black on CNY eve and CNY day, at least to please Ah Kong and Ah Mah (a good enough excuse), Kids, especially girls (well, up to a certain age) would be dolled up in the traditional Chinese clothings, especially cheongsam for the little girls.
It is always heartening to watch families all dressed in red, to a certain extent, arriving to visit relatives in the HDB flat where I live. Depending on their dialect groups, the senior members would be greeting in their respective dialects. Each dialect has its unique CNY greetings. You would hear Teochew greeting each other, Shin Jia Lu Yi.
Chinese New Year Eve Reunion Dinner
To the Chinese, the Reunion Dinner is probably the most important gathering of the family, more so in the extended family where there are the grand parents. Many daughter-in-laws make it their practice to have reunion dinners with their own parents earlier, a few days before the CNY. In the current families in Singapore where there are less children in the family, such gathering becomes more meaningful.
Given the small apartments (HDB flats) in Singapore, it is often a challenge to have extended family reunion dinners. Even when we split the tables into the elders and the children (a time for cousins to catch up). Grandma would often insist on cooking, maybe with some willing daughter-in-laws? But given that most are busy working and living separately, the younger grandma might not be keen to preside on the cooking of traditional dishes .. ahh ... Ah Mah's cooking, often the grandchildren's favourite. A trend that is probably sliding on a very steep gradient. And so, many now opt for reunion dinners in the restaurants. No more days of having to do marketing, lugging the buys back home, planning of the menu, cutting and cooking and after that washing. Big families, no problems, many restaurants have private rooms for a couple of tables if you want a private reunion dinner. Restaurants are also serving traditional dishes, and chances are also that these dishes will transcend across dialect lines.
Chances of all members attending the reunion dinners are certainly not a hundred percent. With the mobile Singaporeans, catching up is still possible thanks to technologies, such as Skype. For many studying overseas, this must be the time of homesickness as they will miss home and the re-nao (arousing) atmosphere of home. More so when they are staying in the northern hemisphere where dark, dreary and cold weather add to the gloom.
For the traditional Chinese families, there are rituals to be followed to welcome the new year. It is believed that if one stays awake longer into the Chinese New Year, the lives of their parents would be lengthened. Which kid does not like the idea of staying up longer? To welcome the new year, there will be offering of mandarin oranges and huat-kueh (traditional Chinese cake with the name "huat" that sounds like growth) to the Gods.
For some, it would be going to the Chinese Temples to offer the first joss sticks. In the Chinese tradition, 11pm is the beginning of the new day. And so, by this time, many would converge to their favourite temples. In Chinatown, Thian Hock Keng and Wak Hai Cheng Beo are two temples busy with devotees.
With a new year comes new hopes and new aspirations. And so, Singapore Chinese, with their fellow Singaporeans, look forward to a brighter future in the year of the Snake. Some of us reminisce the old times of Chinese New Year.
It was a nostalgic walk along the streets of Chinatown (particularly in Temple St, Pagoda St, Trengganu St linking them through to Smith St), with the crowds being drawn to whoever called the loudest with the best offers. On the eve of Chinese New Year (CNY) eve, prices were beginning to drop, particularly the tidbits with short shelf lives. Certain tidbits just have to be there for visiting relatives and friends - kueh-chee (melon sheets) that now come in various flavours and groundnuts. Kueh-kueh (local pastries) come in big varieties ranging from love-letters (Kueh Belanda) to pineapple tarts. Most of these are influenced in many ways by Malays and Peranakans. There's the Taiwanese mochis that have been making big impact during pre-CNY sales.
What seems less obvious these days are the Dui-Lian (Couplets) that traditionally, most Chinese would get them to be pasted on both sides of the door-way and one on top. In the old days, and probably now, one would buy from the calligraphers. Letter writers in the old days are trained in calligraphy and hence could make the additional bucks from such sales. Every couplet is different because it is hand-written. These days, chances are one could buy printed ones. With most living in HDB flats, it would be a challenge to paste these Dui-Lian. My neighbour (who hails from mainland China) has his Dui-lian pasted on the door way between the living room and the kitchen, the only place where it is possible.
Food - an important part to the Chinese
Grandmas would be fussing about what to buy from the wet market to cook for the Reunion Dinner on the CNY Eve. Chinatown wet market is a favourite destination for many, especially for the older folks who used to shop here. Atmosphere in the basement market is different from the wet and dirty roads when the wet market stalls were along the Trengganu St area. No more pulling out the live chicken or ducks to check out if they are fat or not (or rather if they are meaty enough). In the old days, many would buy these poultry live and bring them back home. In the downtown houses, they could be kept in the bathroom or toilets. For those with bigger spaces, they could at least be in the kitchen courtyard. I remember the days when I had to fight with the chicken and ducks just going to the toilet. Or rather they were so alarmed by my presence. We would feed them with cockroaches in the belief that it fattens them up. Once my landlady decided to invest early with a few turkey chicks. Imagine the alarming calls each time I went to the toilet.
Then, came the stage when one would choose the live chicken or duck, have it weighed and price haggled and decided, pay for it and leave it to the stallholders to kill and de-feather, while one carried out with her shopping, to collect later. I remember the days when I had to help my mum to kill the chicken or duck by either holding the struggling bird's neck so that we could slit its throat and drain the blood. Yes, blood was also food. Then came the bird-flu and SARS and it was decided, no live birds in the market. We had to settle for chilled birds (at best).
Fish is another important item to buy. Nian Nian You Yu is one of the favourite greetings. Just similar sounds, but fish has always been an important dish for CNY dinner. For the Hokkien and Teochews, the Rabbit Fish (Peh Tor Hu - white belly fish) is one to look for. But alas, it is terribly expensive. It seems that during this time, the Rabbit Fish would be in its mating season, full or role. And it is less fishy in taste. One such fish could be about S$20 each, or more, from the wet market.
I suppose for other important ingredients, the existence of the supermarkets has somewhat dampened the prices in the wet market. Without fail, one would hear the housewives complaining that the prices "this year is higher than the last!".
For the Cantonese, the dried sausages are a must. many would flock to Chinatown which will have a bigger selection. During this season, a few stalls would be set up along Smith St to offer a range of sausages, waxed duck and the famous Yunnan Ham. The fact that sales were good indicate that many are still preparing them for meals at home. A simple steaming of the sausages on top of the rice is good enough for those of us who grew up with "Lap Cheong", the Cantonese name for the Chinese Sausages.
Everything Red
While the accountants see red in red, the Chinese just love them. Red packets in the old days were simple red paper cut into small enough sizes to wrap over the coins (yes, coins then). And then, red packets were for sale. These days, thanks to commercial marketing, one could get these red packets for free. And of course, the red packets were joined in by the gold packets, thanks to some innovative marketeers.
There seems to be the eternal "clash" between mothers and daughters (is this still true?) about wearing red and not black on CNY eve and CNY day, at least to please Ah Kong and Ah Mah (a good enough excuse), Kids, especially girls (well, up to a certain age) would be dolled up in the traditional Chinese clothings, especially cheongsam for the little girls.
It is always heartening to watch families all dressed in red, to a certain extent, arriving to visit relatives in the HDB flat where I live. Depending on their dialect groups, the senior members would be greeting in their respective dialects. Each dialect has its unique CNY greetings. You would hear Teochew greeting each other, Shin Jia Lu Yi.
Chinese New Year Eve Reunion Dinner
To the Chinese, the Reunion Dinner is probably the most important gathering of the family, more so in the extended family where there are the grand parents. Many daughter-in-laws make it their practice to have reunion dinners with their own parents earlier, a few days before the CNY. In the current families in Singapore where there are less children in the family, such gathering becomes more meaningful.
Given the small apartments (HDB flats) in Singapore, it is often a challenge to have extended family reunion dinners. Even when we split the tables into the elders and the children (a time for cousins to catch up). Grandma would often insist on cooking, maybe with some willing daughter-in-laws? But given that most are busy working and living separately, the younger grandma might not be keen to preside on the cooking of traditional dishes .. ahh ... Ah Mah's cooking, often the grandchildren's favourite. A trend that is probably sliding on a very steep gradient. And so, many now opt for reunion dinners in the restaurants. No more days of having to do marketing, lugging the buys back home, planning of the menu, cutting and cooking and after that washing. Big families, no problems, many restaurants have private rooms for a couple of tables if you want a private reunion dinner. Restaurants are also serving traditional dishes, and chances are also that these dishes will transcend across dialect lines.
Chances of all members attending the reunion dinners are certainly not a hundred percent. With the mobile Singaporeans, catching up is still possible thanks to technologies, such as Skype. For many studying overseas, this must be the time of homesickness as they will miss home and the re-nao (arousing) atmosphere of home. More so when they are staying in the northern hemisphere where dark, dreary and cold weather add to the gloom.
For the traditional Chinese families, there are rituals to be followed to welcome the new year. It is believed that if one stays awake longer into the Chinese New Year, the lives of their parents would be lengthened. Which kid does not like the idea of staying up longer? To welcome the new year, there will be offering of mandarin oranges and huat-kueh (traditional Chinese cake with the name "huat" that sounds like growth) to the Gods.
For some, it would be going to the Chinese Temples to offer the first joss sticks. In the Chinese tradition, 11pm is the beginning of the new day. And so, by this time, many would converge to their favourite temples. In Chinatown, Thian Hock Keng and Wak Hai Cheng Beo are two temples busy with devotees.
With a new year comes new hopes and new aspirations. And so, Singapore Chinese, with their fellow Singaporeans, look forward to a brighter future in the year of the Snake. Some of us reminisce the old times of Chinese New Year.
Monday, December 31, 2012
Wet markets in Greater Chinatown
Thanks to Victoria, she set me thinking about the number of wet markets there were in the greater part of Chinatown. I will try to recall here and if you know of any more, please add in your comments.
The inner Chinatown (as we call it based on the Kreta Ayer Rd to Upper Cross st) has probably the most well known wet market, apart from the equally popular Tekka Market in Little India and the other at Geylang Serai. Interestingly, these three wet market covers about all the fresh food for the three major ethnic groups in Singapore. For those more inclined to western food, then, it was the Cold Storage supermarket, then at Orchard Road.
Back to Chinatown, many of the Chinese in the old days would flock to this inner Chinatown before festive days to get the necessary fresh food and other specialties of the particular festival. This inner Chinatown wet market could be considered as the Cantonese part as the communication then (and a little today) was in Cantonese. And of course, anything one needed for the Cantonese cuisine, one could find it here.
There was also the other wet market at China St area, known as Kiao-Keng-Kou (literally translated as the entrance to the Gambler's Den - and maybe the elders could share with us if there were one or many of such dens then) where the Hokkiens would flock to.
Apart from these wet markets, there were also two probably known more of their wholesale as they also supplied to restaurants. One was the Maxwell Market and the other Ellenborough Market. A little towards the coast was the Lau Pa Sat (Old Market) which was also another bustling market, said to cater towards wholesales as well. Around Elleborough Market were also the shops selling the dried food, ranging from the hay-bee (dried shrimps) to dried ikan bilis (anchovies) and others like dried shark fins and dried sea cucumber.
I remembered walking along the street next to Ellenborough Market in the 70s when I saw the stallholders throwing away big baskets of cabbage leaves (and others as well). To make the cabbage look nice (as you would see in the markets today, then, probably only in Cold Storage), the stallholders stripped away the leaves with yellow ends. Many old ladies would come to this place in the night to cart away these leaves. After cutting away the yellow edges, they could sell the cabbage leaves at a fraction of the price of the day. I suppose that was how the "lower end" of the society survived then.
Apart from these wet markets, there were also others, somewhat for the neighbourhood. One was at Narcis St (no longer around) and Tanjong Pagar. Along Narcis St, shops along Tanjong Pagar around this area and a lane cutting into Craig Rd, this was the wet market for the residents from Craig Rd and Duxton Rd to those at Wallich St, Tras St and Peck Seah St (all residential then). This was the market my Mum would bring me to. Always coming back with my feet all wet and black, it was a wonderful trip each time, not just to watch the marketing - bargaining and bantering - but also to buy breakfast that could be you-chia-kueh (you tiao) freshly made and deep fried or deep fried radish cake. And more. Surrounding the wet markets were stalls selling cooked food, mainly for breakfast.
On the other side of Chinatown, where Tau-Fu-Kai (Upper Chin Chew St) was, there was also a wet market along Upper Chin Chew St and the neighbouring shops along South Bridge Rd. From pork butcher to fish mongers to vegetable sellers.
Come festive days, many, including my Mum would head for inner Chinatown or Kiao-Keng-Kou. And for the Peranakans, it could mean going as far as Tekka, Geylang Serai and Tiong Bahru to get the necessary ingredients.
The inner Chinatown (as we call it based on the Kreta Ayer Rd to Upper Cross st) has probably the most well known wet market, apart from the equally popular Tekka Market in Little India and the other at Geylang Serai. Interestingly, these three wet market covers about all the fresh food for the three major ethnic groups in Singapore. For those more inclined to western food, then, it was the Cold Storage supermarket, then at Orchard Road.
Back to Chinatown, many of the Chinese in the old days would flock to this inner Chinatown before festive days to get the necessary fresh food and other specialties of the particular festival. This inner Chinatown wet market could be considered as the Cantonese part as the communication then (and a little today) was in Cantonese. And of course, anything one needed for the Cantonese cuisine, one could find it here.
There was also the other wet market at China St area, known as Kiao-Keng-Kou (literally translated as the entrance to the Gambler's Den - and maybe the elders could share with us if there were one or many of such dens then) where the Hokkiens would flock to.
Apart from these wet markets, there were also two probably known more of their wholesale as they also supplied to restaurants. One was the Maxwell Market and the other Ellenborough Market. A little towards the coast was the Lau Pa Sat (Old Market) which was also another bustling market, said to cater towards wholesales as well. Around Elleborough Market were also the shops selling the dried food, ranging from the hay-bee (dried shrimps) to dried ikan bilis (anchovies) and others like dried shark fins and dried sea cucumber.
I remembered walking along the street next to Ellenborough Market in the 70s when I saw the stallholders throwing away big baskets of cabbage leaves (and others as well). To make the cabbage look nice (as you would see in the markets today, then, probably only in Cold Storage), the stallholders stripped away the leaves with yellow ends. Many old ladies would come to this place in the night to cart away these leaves. After cutting away the yellow edges, they could sell the cabbage leaves at a fraction of the price of the day. I suppose that was how the "lower end" of the society survived then.
Apart from these wet markets, there were also others, somewhat for the neighbourhood. One was at Narcis St (no longer around) and Tanjong Pagar. Along Narcis St, shops along Tanjong Pagar around this area and a lane cutting into Craig Rd, this was the wet market for the residents from Craig Rd and Duxton Rd to those at Wallich St, Tras St and Peck Seah St (all residential then). This was the market my Mum would bring me to. Always coming back with my feet all wet and black, it was a wonderful trip each time, not just to watch the marketing - bargaining and bantering - but also to buy breakfast that could be you-chia-kueh (you tiao) freshly made and deep fried or deep fried radish cake. And more. Surrounding the wet markets were stalls selling cooked food, mainly for breakfast.
On the other side of Chinatown, where Tau-Fu-Kai (Upper Chin Chew St) was, there was also a wet market along Upper Chin Chew St and the neighbouring shops along South Bridge Rd. From pork butcher to fish mongers to vegetable sellers.
Come festive days, many, including my Mum would head for inner Chinatown or Kiao-Keng-Kou. And for the Peranakans, it could mean going as far as Tekka, Geylang Serai and Tiong Bahru to get the necessary ingredients.
Monday, December 17, 2012
Chinatown Chic
As the headlines on the Straits Times go.
I couldn't help thinking of the decades before when probably the only hostels (if you can call them) in Chinatown were those "stopover" places where one would spend a night or two enroute back to China. Probably on the way back as well.
No personal experiences but I hope to gather information from the older folks who might have lived near to such places - I heard of one at Telok Ayer St - to know more of what life was like then. There were such places, probably with each such place - catering to transit passengers, shipment as well as money transfers - according to the destination. I would imagine that one might cater for GuangDong area while another might be for Fujian.
Such stopovers were definitely not for Singaporeans as they could easily go to the port on time for departure. I could imagine that it might for people from the neighbouring countries, notably Malaya (then), Borneo and Indonesia? The journey to and from China would be easy ones as mode of transport then were ships, probably cargo ships.
Transforming those days, probably also double-decked beds to current modern and chic ones and for different customers, it is indeed a far cry.
While many of these folks on transit or who sent things and money to China (and even receiving some goods from China, notably tea?) might have not intended to stay long in Nanyang, many finally did and died on the distant shores, in Nanyang (southern oceans or S.E.Asia) that is. It is through them, and many others, that built what Singapore is today. Many saved for their loved ones back home, eating whatever small crumbs that they could gather. There are also success stories where one could see such "Malay" houses built in China to show the wealth brought back together with the Nanyang culture. I saw some magnificent ones in my recent visit to Jin Men, which is an island just off Xiamen, but currently part of Taiwan.
Modern hotels provide for any who wants to visit their ancestral homes enroute Singapore. But for most, there are direct flights to their homeland. Modern "sinkeh" (new guests or newcomers) still send back money and things. But there are the modern transfer centres which could be found in the People's Park. On a typical Sunday, the place is abuzz with the "sinkeh" (mainly workers) sending money back and having some good mainland Chinese meal in the stalls around the place. Unlike the old days, probably the transfers are almost instant.
In the old days, chances were the sinkehs would be mainly of Fujian or Guangdong - covering the main southern dialects of Hokkien, Cantonese, Teochew, Hakka and Hainanese, with a few Shanghainese and even those from Wenzhou. While Mandarin was the common language (putong hua) of the elites, chances were that these folks would speak Hokkien and Cantonese, two of the major groups. Interestingly, one might need to use Hokkien when taking bus and Cantonese in the restaurants. Of course, going to the wet market in Chinatown (Smith-Trengganu St, that is) one has to speak in Cantonese. But if you were to go to Kiao-Keng-Kao (Outside the Gambler's den), then, it would be Hokkien. These days, most would be from the mainland north, based on my observations of their relish in tucking in the Dong-Beh food - the mala that numbs the lips of the southern Chinese.
A new wave has long begun. How many will stay, like the old sinkeh? Putong Hua has become all the more important amongst the Chinese. But the challenge is that now they will also have to speak English as this is Singapore's putong hua. As the children of the new sinkeh sink their roots, this will happen. (^^)
I couldn't help thinking of the decades before when probably the only hostels (if you can call them) in Chinatown were those "stopover" places where one would spend a night or two enroute back to China. Probably on the way back as well.
No personal experiences but I hope to gather information from the older folks who might have lived near to such places - I heard of one at Telok Ayer St - to know more of what life was like then. There were such places, probably with each such place - catering to transit passengers, shipment as well as money transfers - according to the destination. I would imagine that one might cater for GuangDong area while another might be for Fujian.
Such stopovers were definitely not for Singaporeans as they could easily go to the port on time for departure. I could imagine that it might for people from the neighbouring countries, notably Malaya (then), Borneo and Indonesia? The journey to and from China would be easy ones as mode of transport then were ships, probably cargo ships.
Transforming those days, probably also double-decked beds to current modern and chic ones and for different customers, it is indeed a far cry.
While many of these folks on transit or who sent things and money to China (and even receiving some goods from China, notably tea?) might have not intended to stay long in Nanyang, many finally did and died on the distant shores, in Nanyang (southern oceans or S.E.Asia) that is. It is through them, and many others, that built what Singapore is today. Many saved for their loved ones back home, eating whatever small crumbs that they could gather. There are also success stories where one could see such "Malay" houses built in China to show the wealth brought back together with the Nanyang culture. I saw some magnificent ones in my recent visit to Jin Men, which is an island just off Xiamen, but currently part of Taiwan.
Modern hotels provide for any who wants to visit their ancestral homes enroute Singapore. But for most, there are direct flights to their homeland. Modern "sinkeh" (new guests or newcomers) still send back money and things. But there are the modern transfer centres which could be found in the People's Park. On a typical Sunday, the place is abuzz with the "sinkeh" (mainly workers) sending money back and having some good mainland Chinese meal in the stalls around the place. Unlike the old days, probably the transfers are almost instant.
In the old days, chances were the sinkehs would be mainly of Fujian or Guangdong - covering the main southern dialects of Hokkien, Cantonese, Teochew, Hakka and Hainanese, with a few Shanghainese and even those from Wenzhou. While Mandarin was the common language (putong hua) of the elites, chances were that these folks would speak Hokkien and Cantonese, two of the major groups. Interestingly, one might need to use Hokkien when taking bus and Cantonese in the restaurants. Of course, going to the wet market in Chinatown (Smith-Trengganu St, that is) one has to speak in Cantonese. But if you were to go to Kiao-Keng-Kao (Outside the Gambler's den), then, it would be Hokkien. These days, most would be from the mainland north, based on my observations of their relish in tucking in the Dong-Beh food - the mala that numbs the lips of the southern Chinese.
A new wave has long begun. How many will stay, like the old sinkeh? Putong Hua has become all the more important amongst the Chinese. But the challenge is that now they will also have to speak English as this is Singapore's putong hua. As the children of the new sinkeh sink their roots, this will happen. (^^)
Friday, September 14, 2012
Hungry Ghost Festival
To many tourists and locals, the 7th Month or the Zhong Yuan Jie is probably better known as the Hungry Ghost Festival. But to the local Chinese who observe this traditional customs, it is an important time of the year. On the surface, one would see neighbourhoods, temples, offices, industrial complexes, hotels and malls organising community based offerings for the ancestors (in neighbourhood and temples) and the "Good Brothers", meaning the wandering souls and the "visiting souls".
Because it is almost impossible to translate all Chinese terms (and even for each Chinese dialect, sometime, they defy accurate translations), the English words used here would be loose translations or what is commonly used, even not meaning exactly the same.
In the old days and as much as today, although because of urban renewal, much could not be seen in Chinatown, certain business activities go into overdrive. Chinese traditional products, ranging from joss papers, joss sticks, candles to many paper offerings for the departed (from traditional parcels to iphone lookalikes and even OSIM lookalike chairs) were in big demand. In the Cantonese part of Chinatown (generally speaking), there are at least two traditional shops of such kind, one at Smith St (now better known as Food St) and the other in an HDB flat facing the Tooth Relic Temple. Business is brisk at this time of the year, other than Qing Ming and other minor Chinese traditional events.
Apart from the Cantonese who do their "public" offerings (by the side of the road) on 15th of the 7th Month, the other dialect groups such as Teochew and Hokkien would do it on the first day, 15th and the last day of the 7th month. Food offerings were also made. So, you can imagine that the shops and the wet markets (and supermarkets as well) are also doing brisk business, from fruits to meat (some would buy back to cook while others might just buy ready cooked ones like roast pork, roast chicken and duck), and even Chinese Rice Wine and Tea.
For the organised community based prayers, the organisers would buy them bulk from shops or even supermarkets which have identified this market demand. Supermarkets from Sheng Siong to Carrefour could be seen offering 7th month offerings. Specially prepared forms were prepared for the organisers to tick and place their order according to some set "menu".
In the old days, in a kampong (village) or street, there would be organisers who went round collecting subscriptions for this event. Today it is still happening. Because of the urban renewal and migration of people from different villages, you could see more than one organisers for this 7th month event in the same group of HDB blocks. Interestingly, you might find similar events organised in some faraway HDB estate where the participants are from another part of town or kampong which has become history. But the community spirit and the sense of belonging continues. At least, maybe until the people involved leave this world?
In Chinatown, it is interesting too to note that a number of similar 7th Month celebrations were being organised. There was one organised by the wet market and food stalls, another by the Chinatown Business Association and yet another by the stalls at the Food Street. And as in traditional practice, those shopkeepers who believe would also make offerings from outside their shops.
The bigger organised events might engage the Taoist Priests to conduct rituals. For the temples, they would include a Chao Du (Salvation ritual) for the ancestors of the participants. Some temples might have street wayang (opera) or marionette. Others might have getai (variety show). Getai since the days of Wang Sar Yeh Fong has come a long way and attract thousands of fans. Getais are probably the main medium with which dialects are kept alive, through songs and the skits managed by the MCs. In Chinatown, there could be more Cantonese songs, where others would have more Hokkien songs, bolstered with Mandarin and others that could range from Teochew to Malay! Singers flock from the region, from Indonesia and Malaysia and could be as far as Taiwan, the pace setter in many ways in getais.
In many of such events, there would be the traditional 8-course dinners where participants of the 7th Month prayers - the Hokkien call it Por Tor (Pu Du) - would join. Local leaders such as the MPs are also invited to grace the event. This is an important event where members of the mall or neighbourhood come together to eat, drink and do their bit, getting to know each other better in the process. There would be items raised for auction during such dinners, that sometimes irritate the neighbours who do not appreciate this community event, that helps to provide the funds to manage the next year's event. These days, most people who bid for the auctioned item would pay immediately, whereas in the old days, they have one year to pay, just before the next year's event. The difference in these two changing models must be the economic condition today compared to the past. In the past, especially in the neigbourhood, some might bid in the belief that Por Tor Kong would help them get some money to pay for it when the time comes.
Not in the public would be the remembrance of the ancestors by the Chinese families. In this month, families would offer prayers for their departed. Extended families would gather. Where there are Chao Du in the neighbourhood or temples and the families participated, you can see the extended families come together. In the old days, much of such activities could well be in the home, for some with simple offerings and meal. These days, with better organisation and the lack of time for many, many opt for such activities organised for them. Some families might add more to the offering by bringing the favourite food of their departed.
It was a time when sometimes, grandma would introduce her grandchildren to the departed whom they have not met. It is a time when customs and traditions are reinforced and imprinted onto the young.
While many might think that this is a month that ghosts or spirits roam wild on the streets, it is the month when families remember their roots, it is the month when community comes together - be it in the neighbourhood or the office complex.
Unknown to many, the 15th of the 7th month is when Taoists offer their respect to Di Guan, the official responsible for the Earth Realm. Hence the term Zhong Yuan Jie.
Zhong Yuan Jie can be considered as one of our intangible heritage.
Because it is almost impossible to translate all Chinese terms (and even for each Chinese dialect, sometime, they defy accurate translations), the English words used here would be loose translations or what is commonly used, even not meaning exactly the same.
In the old days and as much as today, although because of urban renewal, much could not be seen in Chinatown, certain business activities go into overdrive. Chinese traditional products, ranging from joss papers, joss sticks, candles to many paper offerings for the departed (from traditional parcels to iphone lookalikes and even OSIM lookalike chairs) were in big demand. In the Cantonese part of Chinatown (generally speaking), there are at least two traditional shops of such kind, one at Smith St (now better known as Food St) and the other in an HDB flat facing the Tooth Relic Temple. Business is brisk at this time of the year, other than Qing Ming and other minor Chinese traditional events.
Apart from the Cantonese who do their "public" offerings (by the side of the road) on 15th of the 7th Month, the other dialect groups such as Teochew and Hokkien would do it on the first day, 15th and the last day of the 7th month. Food offerings were also made. So, you can imagine that the shops and the wet markets (and supermarkets as well) are also doing brisk business, from fruits to meat (some would buy back to cook while others might just buy ready cooked ones like roast pork, roast chicken and duck), and even Chinese Rice Wine and Tea.
For the organised community based prayers, the organisers would buy them bulk from shops or even supermarkets which have identified this market demand. Supermarkets from Sheng Siong to Carrefour could be seen offering 7th month offerings. Specially prepared forms were prepared for the organisers to tick and place their order according to some set "menu".
In the old days, in a kampong (village) or street, there would be organisers who went round collecting subscriptions for this event. Today it is still happening. Because of the urban renewal and migration of people from different villages, you could see more than one organisers for this 7th month event in the same group of HDB blocks. Interestingly, you might find similar events organised in some faraway HDB estate where the participants are from another part of town or kampong which has become history. But the community spirit and the sense of belonging continues. At least, maybe until the people involved leave this world?
In Chinatown, it is interesting too to note that a number of similar 7th Month celebrations were being organised. There was one organised by the wet market and food stalls, another by the Chinatown Business Association and yet another by the stalls at the Food Street. And as in traditional practice, those shopkeepers who believe would also make offerings from outside their shops.
The bigger organised events might engage the Taoist Priests to conduct rituals. For the temples, they would include a Chao Du (Salvation ritual) for the ancestors of the participants. Some temples might have street wayang (opera) or marionette. Others might have getai (variety show). Getai since the days of Wang Sar Yeh Fong has come a long way and attract thousands of fans. Getais are probably the main medium with which dialects are kept alive, through songs and the skits managed by the MCs. In Chinatown, there could be more Cantonese songs, where others would have more Hokkien songs, bolstered with Mandarin and others that could range from Teochew to Malay! Singers flock from the region, from Indonesia and Malaysia and could be as far as Taiwan, the pace setter in many ways in getais.
In many of such events, there would be the traditional 8-course dinners where participants of the 7th Month prayers - the Hokkien call it Por Tor (Pu Du) - would join. Local leaders such as the MPs are also invited to grace the event. This is an important event where members of the mall or neighbourhood come together to eat, drink and do their bit, getting to know each other better in the process. There would be items raised for auction during such dinners, that sometimes irritate the neighbours who do not appreciate this community event, that helps to provide the funds to manage the next year's event. These days, most people who bid for the auctioned item would pay immediately, whereas in the old days, they have one year to pay, just before the next year's event. The difference in these two changing models must be the economic condition today compared to the past. In the past, especially in the neigbourhood, some might bid in the belief that Por Tor Kong would help them get some money to pay for it when the time comes.
Not in the public would be the remembrance of the ancestors by the Chinese families. In this month, families would offer prayers for their departed. Extended families would gather. Where there are Chao Du in the neighbourhood or temples and the families participated, you can see the extended families come together. In the old days, much of such activities could well be in the home, for some with simple offerings and meal. These days, with better organisation and the lack of time for many, many opt for such activities organised for them. Some families might add more to the offering by bringing the favourite food of their departed.
It was a time when sometimes, grandma would introduce her grandchildren to the departed whom they have not met. It is a time when customs and traditions are reinforced and imprinted onto the young.
While many might think that this is a month that ghosts or spirits roam wild on the streets, it is the month when families remember their roots, it is the month when community comes together - be it in the neighbourhood or the office complex.
Unknown to many, the 15th of the 7th month is when Taoists offer their respect to Di Guan, the official responsible for the Earth Realm. Hence the term Zhong Yuan Jie.
Zhong Yuan Jie can be considered as one of our intangible heritage.
Friday, August 03, 2012
Lee Dai Soh tells a story
Some were amazed that Lee Dai Soh of Rediffusion Cantonese Storytelling fame was going to tell a story. Well, it was only a recording of his storytelling. To those who have heard his stories before, it was like a journey back home in time. To those not old enough to have heard him, it was probably curiosity. In either case, a number flocked to Kwong Wai Siew Li Si She Shut (Lee Clan Association) over the two weekends (21 & 22, and 28 & 29 July 2012) at 3pm to check it out.
Lee Dai Soh, a name he coined himself, was a member of the Li Shi She Shut. His photo hung on the wall of this association was probably better known to his fans and their children and grandchildren. And hence the most appropriate place to listen to his stories. What better place too as this Association has its old world charm with the beautiful old chairs to sit on. We sat by the long table, which was and is still probably being used for the Association's meetings, enjoying Chinese tea with great Cantonese pastries (like the famous Tan-Tart - egg tart - from Tong Heng, one of the heritage shops still standing in Singapore's Chinatown), and listened to the story.
For those of us who have heard his stories before, it was like listening to an old friend again. It was like yesterday, for many. It was like a scene repeated from days gone by, be it the tenants of the house squatting or sitting together to listen to the small Rediffusion box or the men drinking coffee in the local kopi tiam (coffee shop). It was delightful to see how each had his or her own ways of listening to the verbal descriptions and imagining them. Closing one's eyes would be the most probable case although some would be staring blankly into the space.
Where there were different people turning up for each sessions, there were some die-hards who were there on every of the four occasions. In the beginning of each session, the President of the Association, Mr. James Lee, would welcome the visitors in Cantonese and explain a little about the Association. At the end of the Storytelling, when the other participants came for the URA Clan Association Heritage Walk, he would explain in Mandarin the history of the Association.
Listening to the tales told by Lee Dai Soh, in his own style with humour and invitation to his audience to feed back to him, I discovered that much of what was shared in the storytelling was about the history, legends and folk beliefs of China. It is through such stories that our folks of the old days, many of whom were illiterate, learnt and shared with their grandchildren. Do you know why in the Southern Lion Dance, there was that guy with a mask of a monk and a fan? Listen to Lee Dai Soh's story on "Drangon Dance, Lion Dance" (this was told on 28 Jul 12).
It was an interesting four days of storytelling that I attended faithfully, although my comprehension was at best 40%. But it was like a refreshing revision as I suddenly could recall some of the Cantonese words long embedded somewhere in my skull. A friend was so excited listening to the stores, akin like a dehydrated fish finding water. Suddenly one program in her brain was activated and her Cantonese came rushing out.
Many asked if they could buy a CD of Lee Dai Soh's stories. Alas, they could not be found. I hope that there could be some way of making the stories available, be it in CDs or downloadable MP3 so that we could play for our grandparents who might get to listen to them again. It would not be a great business proposition but perhaps, a great heritage initiative. It might be great if Cantonese associations and even Community Centres organise (as they had done in the past) such Storytelling sessions in one of their Audio rooms for the senior citizens. Some local or even foreign storytellers could also be invited to drop by to tell. It could be a fringe or part of the heritage festivals or even Storytelling festivals!
Kudos to Kwong Wai Siew Li Si She Shut, National Heritage Board and URA for the great initiative and collaborations to make this possible for us to experience. Looking forward to repeats with more stories.
ack: Li Si She Shut
For those of us who have heard his stories before, it was like listening to an old friend again. It was like yesterday, for many. It was like a scene repeated from days gone by, be it the tenants of the house squatting or sitting together to listen to the small Rediffusion box or the men drinking coffee in the local kopi tiam (coffee shop). It was delightful to see how each had his or her own ways of listening to the verbal descriptions and imagining them. Closing one's eyes would be the most probable case although some would be staring blankly into the space.
Where there were different people turning up for each sessions, there were some die-hards who were there on every of the four occasions. In the beginning of each session, the President of the Association, Mr. James Lee, would welcome the visitors in Cantonese and explain a little about the Association. At the end of the Storytelling, when the other participants came for the URA Clan Association Heritage Walk, he would explain in Mandarin the history of the Association.
Listening to the tales told by Lee Dai Soh, in his own style with humour and invitation to his audience to feed back to him, I discovered that much of what was shared in the storytelling was about the history, legends and folk beliefs of China. It is through such stories that our folks of the old days, many of whom were illiterate, learnt and shared with their grandchildren. Do you know why in the Southern Lion Dance, there was that guy with a mask of a monk and a fan? Listen to Lee Dai Soh's story on "Drangon Dance, Lion Dance" (this was told on 28 Jul 12).
It was an interesting four days of storytelling that I attended faithfully, although my comprehension was at best 40%. But it was like a refreshing revision as I suddenly could recall some of the Cantonese words long embedded somewhere in my skull. A friend was so excited listening to the stores, akin like a dehydrated fish finding water. Suddenly one program in her brain was activated and her Cantonese came rushing out.
Kudos to Kwong Wai Siew Li Si She Shut, National Heritage Board and URA for the great initiative and collaborations to make this possible for us to experience. Looking forward to repeats with more stories.
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