Lai Chun Yuen 梨春园 - guzheng performance

Not wanting to miss the guzheng performance, we rushed to Lai Chun Yuen, arriving a little past 7pm. We were still able to watch the performance. It was impressive. All the ladies with one man performed on the guzheng with two guys on the percussions.

No conductor, no notes but the ladies and men performed beautifully. What is perhaps a little lacking is the set up in the rest of this magnificient hall. But one cannot complain when one is watching and listening to the performance without paying a cent.

If only someone were to project the title of the pieces that the guzheng troupe was playing. The music was very familiar but it took a while to try to recall the title. The pieces chosen was very well suited to the crowd, very robust, full of life and energy and towards the end, with the encore, the crowd was clapping hands to join in the beat.

If they were to have such performances very weekend, it would certainly be great. If only I could have my table and chairs nearer to the performers.  Wine was on sale there, and maybe a glass might match with some pieces and some oolong for others.

I think the current management is having vendors offering all kinds of things for sale, preferably heritage stuff of Chinatown and Singapore. It is almost like a flea market and I think more could be squeezed in to make it really like a market. If they could keep the noise level down, and have performances like every alternate half hour during weekends, it would be a fun place to go to. Maybe even the musical buskers too! Imagine even the amateur nanyin singer - be it Hokkien or Cantonese. The erhus, the pipas, the Chinese strings .. and maybe, the Teochew kong kuan (the whole group might bring the roof down).

Photos of Old Singapore

Taking an after-dinner stroll through the streets of the Cantonese-speaking Chinatown (in the old days, that is), we chanced upon the re-opening of the Lai Chun Yuen 梨春园 (Li Chun Yuan), the famed old opera-house of yesteryears. The outside facade of the row of what seems like shophouses belie the existence of an opera-house inside. If only we could bring back its old glory with the newly restored and renovated interior. It could well be.The new management is coming up with something in a matter of days. For the time being, it was a to be a spread of stalls selling things of the old. As it was already past 9pm the only stall that was open was the Hogart Art London stall! And what warm greetings we received from the staff! "We are still open, just for you!" How not to oblige with a purchase? But we resisted and got to discussions about old Singapore, quizzing each other on one's knowledge of old Singapore.

Question for you, "Which street was the first street of Singapore?"

There were old pictures of Chinatown in the old days, and certainly worth buying for keepsakes as well as for friends. They are frame-ready. I was told that these photos were collected and produced from England. So, for the old Singapore and old Chinatown buffs, this is worth looking at (no commercial interests on my part).

Tomorrow night will be the final night of this weekend's guzheng 古筝 performance. I hope in the weeks ahead, we could get to see more arts performance, it be Chinese or even of other kinds. It is certainly a great place to be part of the Singapore's Arts Festival.

How nice it would be to sit down, have a few cuppas of good oolong 乌龙, poh-lei 保利 or the current trend of pu-erh 普洱, and watching a Cantonese opera. Tai Lui Fa 帝女花 came to mind. (^^)

Pasar Theatre in Chinatown

Interesting title for this event, "Pasar Theatre" in which I understand "Pasar" as market in Malay. Nevertheless, it was Arts to the people, and in this part of Chinatown, behind the Tooth Relic Temple, it's the older folks. Of course, apparently oblivious to the music or the blast, a few groups in the far back were more interested in the "Dum" (Checkers) or Chinese Chess. Such is typical of a marketplace.

When I was there on Sunday 24 May 2009, I was in time to watch the Nanyin performance by Siong Leng Musical Association, one of the two Nanyin groups in Singapore, resident in Bukit Pasoh, a couple of minutes walk up the slope.

To bring the folks back to the old days, the emcee was dressed in the typical samfoo of yesteryears, 1960s and before. And of course, with young girls, there was the typical twin pony tails. Ah, only this time, the lady emcee was speaking mostly Mandarin. I was trying to scan the faces of the old folks to see if they could understand. Some did. She did add in some Hokkien here and there, and probably some snatches of Cantonese as well.

To many of the old folks, the small skitch that I saw of her talking to an imaginery letter writer of her telling her parents back home about her work in Nanyang and enquiring if their sow at home had already given birth .. they certainly must have brought lumps to the throat, if they understood the Mandarin. 

The emcee cleverly weaved in the stories with the Nanyin performances and again, if the audience understand the ancient Hokkien, they might appreciate the lyrics of songs such as "Jia Hang Tsu Beh" - eating sweet potato rice porridge, something I could relate to as they could be a meal by itself and certainly supplemented to keep the tummy filled. Easy to grow, and it grows fast, the sweet potato roots could be eaten in many ways, and the leaves too, whether in fuyi (Cantonese for the fermented tofu) or in sambal (Malay for the chilli paste).

A trip to the barber

Going to the barber has always been a chore. But it is still a necessary chore, that is to get the haircut. Although, these days, the strict no-long-hair rules (for men and boys) are no longer in place. In fact, I have seen quite a number of guys in their fifties spotting pony tails with their hair in natural streaks - white, grey and less than black hair.

Last week, I took time to go to the barber - how much things I could do other than waiting at the barber. My regular was the Japanese named barber at Chinatown Point. Walking through the ever-changing routes of a constantly changing Chinatown, I passed this barbershop at the Old People's Park (well, this is the HDB's People's Park) Ah S$6 per hair cut and since the economy is not exactly doing well, perhaps, I could save S$4 by going to this barber.

Going to a new barber has always been an adventure, which could turn out to be a nightmare, not necessary for me. Once I thought I go to an upmarket barber (hairdresser?) in Orchard Rd and was convinced that my hair lacked bounce and the lady assured me that she could help make my hair more lively and bouncy. To cut the story short, I had my hair permed! The only time I had my hair permed was when I was five I think, and I suppose I was then the "victim" of an amateur homegrown hairdresser. I could see the shock faces in my family as well as my colleagues.

When I was much younger, I dreaded going to the barber because he insisted on shaving my face .. forehead, cheek, neck and ear. Then, I did not qualify for the ear-cleaning work, although the tools would send me running. My doctor used to tell me that the "dung" in the ear would come out naturally. There's no need to dig.

Then, we thought it might be better to go to an Indian barber. For one, there was airconditioning. For two, there was always Indian music and songs. I always wondered how come the Indian channel in the radio had non-stop songs and music. Never got the chance to ask. While it was shiok (felt good) it was also kind of frightening when the barber did the twisting of the neck until one got the "crak" sound from the neck bones.

When I started working, I thought it would be fun to try to Malay barbers. Indeed they were good but I had to seek them out, mainly in the Geylang Serai or Marine Parade area.  And so, it was Malay music this time.

Back to Chinatown as I gingerly stepped into this tiny new barbershop in Old PP. The other lady barber was reading the newspapers. She welcomed me, in Mandarin of course. I had to make sure I could speak Mandarin to go to one of these barbershops as they are staffed by mainland Chinese. Friendly and she did pick up a few local barber English like "slope"? I nodded.

Another lady came in asking if they cut lady's hair. Yes was the reply. Interestingly, this lady - rather direct - asked if they could cut and what if they did it wrong. Imagine the quiet hiss under the lady barber's breath. (^^) She then decided to check out other places. Wow, the lady barber came up with her indignations about the lady's comments, with comments of support from my lady barber. Interesting to hear two mainland Chinese speak. I thought I was in China. (^^)

The lady came back! And she asked again for reassurance that her hair cut would not go wrong. Sure sure must have been the indication. I was busy looking at my barber as she went round my head a few times. I could not help feeling that my hair was getting shorter and shorter.  Just as she was about to say that it was done, I told her to comb my hair the other way round to show the disarray as they hung over my ear. Years of experience told me that I need to confirm this with barbers whom I think are not too experienced.

I had my haircut in this family owned barbershop in Japan and it was interesting. Wife washed my hair and husband cut my hair. Mother or mother-in-law helped out. In broken Japanese I had my hair cut but I was always confident that they would do a good job.

When I was in Raleigh, USA, I went for a haircut by a Palestinian. Very professional! I did not see him using any vacuum cleaner on my head but there was not a single strand of loose hair on me after the haircut. Here, they had my hair washed first before the cut. I had to ask the receptionist how I should tip him, as is expected here.

Back to Chinatown, the lady patiently trimmed the jaggered hair look to make sure that it look good running over the ear in line with the sloping line. Satisfied, I paid her. Yes, it was S$6.

I guess, after another 100 heads, she would be good enough. By then, I am not sure if she would be happy with S$6, which I guess she would be getting less. But hey, if time is bad, with a little interactions, and with a spirit of adventure, this is a great place to go. If only my Mandarin is as good as my Hokkien. (^^)

Chinatown in 1938

Wow, this is before my time, but I thought some of you might be interested. And it reminded me of my childhood days when Grandpa would bring me to visit his Tua-Kow (lighter) moored in the Singapore River. Jumping from Tua-Kow to Tua-kow was no joke, when I was probably about 6 years old. On one side was the dirty water of the river (this video showed much cleaner water) and the other was like three storeys into the depth of the empty Tua-Kow.

Grandpa took care of one Tua-Kow which was one of the many that could be linked from one to another, pulled by a small motor boat from Singapore River to the Outer Roads (meaning the outer part of the sea just out of the Singapore River mouth, which then had a long bund to keep the waves from crashing into the Inner Roads). Loads of rice, flour, copra and many things were transported this way from the ships to the godowns (warehouses) through the Tua-Kows and back to the ships. Singapore was an active entreport trade then, and I guess now too, except that they use containers.

Grandpa died on one stormy night when he tried to cover the goods in his Tua-Kow and was knocked off the Tua-Kow when wind blew the huge cover into him. That was in 1960. Since then, there was no more Tua-Kow jumping, no more trishaw rides and no more kopi in a saucer from the Chinese Sarabat Stall (roadside coffeeshop stall) in the Hokkien part of Chinatown, known as Giao-Keng-Kao (Outside the Gambling Den).



From youtube.com: A tour of the British colony of Singapore in 1938.Footage from this film is available for licensing from www.globalimageworks.com

Thanks to the alert from http://groups.yahoo.com/group/singaporeheritage -

Plucking the greens to bring in luck afresh

If there is a period when the lion dance troupes are out by the prides and most active, it must be during the Chinese New Year. While it is a good time for fund raising for the lion dance troupes, it is an important times as businesses and even households welcome the lions to come and bring in renewed energies so as to bring in new prosperity and luck.

This is represented in the plucking of the greens known as Cai Qing 采青. 

In Singapore Chinatown

In the old days, there would be a bunch of Shang Choy 生菜 (Sheng Cai or Chinese Lettuce) with an angpow (red packet, containing money) being hung up for the lion to find its way up to pluck the greens and be rewarded with the angpow. At times, the shops might place the greens as high as in the second storey for the lion to try to get them. The lion would have to consider if it could get to that height by having a pile-up of their guys balancing on the shoulder, one on top of the other. Others might have to resort to more mechanical means.

I was in Sydney during part of this Chinese New Year and was fortunate to see the traditional Lion Dance with the lion trying to pluck the green from the ceiling of a restaurant. Ah, such scenes are hardly seen in Singapore these days. In the Sydney Chinatown - which is like a one-street but very Chinese Chinatown (but of course) - every restaurant or shop welcomed the lions but it was not an easy task for them just to pluck the green.

In Sydney Chinatown

They came armed with harden bamboo poles fixed with metal "steps" to help the main lion head holder to climb up to the top of the pole. Interestingly, when they came to this part, it was the job of an older man (maybe in his 50s or 60s). It still needed gungfu! 

In Singapore, apart from the greens, the lions learned to peel mandarin oranges and make Chinese characters. Important words such as Wang (Prosperity) are important to the business people. Maybe, in the homes or the temples, they might give a hint of some numbers, for the 4-D (lottery) inclined.

Welcoming Chinese Lunar New Year

It was about 11.30pm, away from the bustling "Chinatown" where the modern world twirled around, quietly (not so really) in the temples, many Singapore Chinese went to renew their ties with their heritage.

At Thian Hock Keng 天福宫, along Telok Ayer St, many came to join the 

monks in prayers to Mazu, welcoming the new year of the Bull. Many brought along their children, showing them how to worship. Unknown to these kids, this temple, some hundred years ago, was the place where many grateful Chinese came to pray to Mazu, thanking her, upon having reached shore safely. Many did not.

I remembered vividly when I was very young, some fifty years ago, with my mum, we took the trishaw to this Ma Chor Keng 妈祖宫 (as it was more popularly known then) to pray to Ma Chor Po (again, a fond term calling her the old grand aunt Ma Chor in Hokkien)

On this night, lions and a dragon pranced and twirled around the temple, bringing renewed energies to this grand old dame. Probably the most famous temple, to the locals as well as to the tourists, tonight saw more locals than tourists. As they prayed to Ti Kong (Tian Gong - Jade Emperor) facing the sky and then to Mazu, their children followed. For a challenging new year, this moment couldn't have been better asking the Gods for guidance.

The original place where the opera stage used to be, but now a tall Hokkien Huay Kuan building, was once again the place for a String Puppet (Marionette) show for Mazu and the resident deities. It's been years since when the last puppet show was shown here.

Further down the road, the GuangDong temple (worshipped by Teochews and Cantonese in the old days), Wak Hai Cheng Beo 粤海清庙 (Yue Hai Qing Miao), in its traditional form, had many giant joss sticks burning in the courtyard while queues formed inside to get the prayer-sets to pray to the two main resident Deities, Tua Lao Ya (Xuan Tian Shang Di) and Mazu.

A much longer walk, no we drove, at the other end of the town, where there used to be an older civilisation (^^), stood the Hakka Tua Pek Kong Temple dedicated to Fu De Ci Wang Ha Da Bo Gong 福德祠望海大伯公 . It was almost 1.45am when we arrived. At this time, the crowd had thinned out, but the burning candles and joss-sticks told us that many had come to offer their first joss-sticks to Tua Pek Kong or Dai Pak Kong, as the Cantonese or Hakkas call him.

As the worshippers connect with the Deities, they brought forth the hundred years (or more) of the relationship of the Singapore Chinese with China, where their ancestors came from. One of the many untold stories of the Chinatown.

Happy 牛 Year

The year of the Ox is arriving soon. And the Chinatown in Singapore prepares to usher in the Ox.

The Ox is often associated with hardwork (honest living, I might add), as one could see in the rice fields of Asia, this year, we need it all the more to help many of us pull through an anticipated challenging year.

The year of the Ox, Bull, Buffalo or Seladang as it might be, will remind us of the humble beginning of the Singapore Chinatown, where it was a hub for the bullockcarts delivering water, hence Niu Che Shui 牛车水.

Chinese New Year goodies arriving

A quick inspection of Chinatown this evening revealed the preparations for the big sale. The typical Chinese goodies like the sausages and waxed ducks were already hung.  It must have been shortage of advantageous places or was it a kind of double attraction, when I saw sausages and waxed ducks being sold outside the sex shop!

Ah, humour always wins the day. Here was one lion that has a sign hung around it that it (or the owner) would not be held responsible if someone has been bitten by it. I would bet that many would attempt to put their hands inside its mouth. (^^)

All kinds of delightful stuff, mainly in red, were on sale to help one hang them in the home to brighten up the place. Possibly to chase away the "Nian" who might come a-calling. That and perhaps some loud music or taped music (or techno?) of fire-crackers to chase it away.

The fresh flowers have yet to arrive, a little too early. And so the fake flowers have their advantage. For now.

Chinese Lunar Year is coming soon! Lights Up on 3 Jan 09

Yes, on 26 Jan 2009, to be exact. That will be the 1st day of the 1st Chinese Lunar month for the Ji Chou Year - 己丑年.

And Chinatown is preparing to usher the new year of the Ox, which comes early in this coming year. Barely has the shopping been done in the Orchard Road area (a must go place for Christmas shopping)  when shopping for the Chinese New Year will start.

Pre-Chinese New Year shopping is a must as there are gifts to be given to the in-laws, ingredients to be bought to make kueh-kueh (cakes, pastries and tidbits to entertain visiting relatives, friends and colleagues during Chinese New Year celebrations which span 15 days), food for Reunion dinner (many have opted for family reunion in restaurants, but it will never be the same) and there's drinks of all kinds - from soft to hard and yes, new clothings too!

Chinatown has been a traditional place for most of these shopping. Despite the changing landscape within Chinatown, it is still the place to come, at least once, to see what is available for Chinese New Year celebration preparation. With additional cultural activities planned by the Chinatown residents, it would be even more exciting.